How to Choose the Right Water Purifier

The purification stage you need depends on what's actually in your water, not on which model has the most letters after its name. RO (reverse osmosis) removes dissolved solids — salts, heavy metals, arsenic, fluoride — by forcing water through a membrane, and it's the right call for borewell or tanker water with high TDS (total dissolved solids). UV sterilises biologically (bacteria, viruses) but does nothing about dissolved minerals, so it suits municipal supply that's already low in TDS but not always microbiologically safe. UF filters out suspended particles and larger organisms without electricity, and is often paired with UV rather than used alone.

Before choosing, get your water's TDS tested — a basic TDS meter (many purifier dealers will test it for free) gives a number in ppm. Above roughly 500 ppm, RO is worth the water it uses in rejection; below that, a non-RO UV+UF purifier avoids wasting water for no purification benefit you'd actually notice.

Storage capacity matters more than people expect: a 6–7 litre tank is tight for a family of five if the water pressure drops for a few hours in the evening. Size the tank to a full day's drinking and cooking water for your household, not just what looks compact on the counter.

Maintenance is the part most people forget to budget for. RO membranes typically need replacing annually, and pre-filters more often depending on your water's sediment load — ask what a full year of filter changes costs before you buy, not just the purifier price.